Having passed through Kielder Water on the way to John O'Groats 11 years ago and having found it a bit bleak, I was somewhat alarmed to find Debbie had booked a week's holiday there to celebrate her 40th birthday. It turned out to be fantastic: there is so much to do there, with over 100 miles of cycle trails, and plenty of interesting stuff for children to do too. Even the weather was kind, if a little cold. Leaplish Waterside Park was a great place to stay, with several playgrounds, a swimming pool, bar and restaurant, and hot-tubs outside the lodges. It was also extremely quiet: I ran around Bull Crag Peninsula and didn't see anyone for five miles!