Sicily, July-August 2023

29-31st July - Agrigento and Enna

Leaving the winery with half a kilo of salted capers and several bottles of wine, we followed Google Maps into Chiaramonte Gulfi. With the narrow streets lined with buildings disrupting the signal, the satnav thought we were on a parallel street and took us up a no-way street: it got narrower and narrower until it ended at a steep downhill that I only just in time realised was a staircase. With no prospect of reversing hundreds of metres between tightly parked cars, and no desire to do an Italian Job, the only way out was a right angle between two buildings that looked way too small for the car. For the first time since I was 18, I wished my driving instructor was with me to tell me what to do. I ejected Debbie to practise her Italian on the curious locals gathered to watch me prang the shiny new car. With lots of hand waving and little understanding, and a 10 point turn, we got through with barely a centimetre either side of the car. In the midst of all this, Megan wailed from the back "we're going to die!" Too traumatised to get out and do some sightseeing, we pressed on to Scala dei Turchi, our third destination. After an afternoon on the beach, we went to the Valley of the Temples at dusk.

The next morning, the landlady spoke into her phone, and Google Translate presented us with the words "You have a beautiful family". I think she might have even meant it. Then after more beach time, we were back on the road in blazing sun, the air conditioning in the car struggling to keep us alive. At one point, we were on a very remote road, with no shade, wondering what would happen if we broke down or wrecked the car in one of the many chasms in the road. Emerging at the other end, some more Google Translate on the signs indicated the road was closed for maintenance. The sign looked identical to the one we ignorantly weaved around the other end.

After visiting the Villa Romana del Casale, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre with exquisite mosaics, it was off to our fourth destination, a farm near Piazza Armerina. Another great swimming pool, lovely food, and a comfortable room.

The next morning, we visited Enna, and got our first glimpse of Mount Etna. Then it was off to our final destination near Acireale, in Catania.