Sea Kayaking, West Scotland, May 2006

16th May - Garvellachs

We were woken up today by Luke at ridiculous o'clock (eight o'clock, to be precise). The weather was a bit grey and threatening, but luckily the winds were still calm, so the sea was going to be lovely and smooth again. After a hearty breakfast of Super Noodles, fried potato cakes and several pints of tea, it was off to try out the island's facilities. Seaweed does indeed make a good substitute for toilet paper, though I'm not sure the passing fishing boat was particularly pleased to see me.

First stop was Eileach an Naoimh, which is the western most island of the Garvellachs. Eileach an Naoimh has a ruined monastery on it which is where the stressed out monks of Iona used to go to get away from it all! After chilling out to cups of tea and chocolate, we paddled along the north of the islands past awesome cliffs, lots of seabirds and even the odd seal.At lunch we landed on Dùn Chonnuill, the eastern most island of the Garvellachs, which isn't the easiest thing to do, and set off up the steep hill which used to have a fort on it. Why anyone felt the need to defend such a tiny and inaccessible island is anybody's guess, but it certainly has a good view, so maybe it was the place they posted retiring officers who didn't want to get into any trouble.

Lunch over, we headed back to Lunga, having marvelled from the fort at how far away it all looked. The sight of the tents on the rugged uninhabited island from a mile or so out to sea is something that I'll never forget. Sea kayaking has to be the most exciting and satisfying way to explore the coastline and nearby islands.